Skiing in Japan

HAKUBA
The main exception to this rule, and therefore the top recommendation for ski resorts in Japan goes to Hakuba, a vegan oasis in the Japanese ski world, and also the site of the 1998 Winter Olympics. This is because there is a vegan restaurant right on the ski slopes and because the Hakuba Highland Hotel has chefs willing show off their culinary skills and cook up fresh, delicious and authentic Japanese food, which is probably the best Japanese food I've ever eaten.

It's not just the Olympic past which make Hakuba worth visiting.

And it's not just the food either - the views are spectacular.

But it can also get quite blizzard-like up the mountain!

Hakuba lies almost directly across the main island of Japan from Tokyo, about 50km from the West Coast. It's possible, but slow, to reach it by conventional train, with the best route being a shinkansen to Nagano (about an hour and a half), and then a bus to Hakuba (about an hour). It's a perfect location for a three-plus day excursion from Tokyo. It's generally significantly cheaper to go through a travel agent for a deal combining the shinkansen and the hotel (and possibly lift pass) than to book both independently, and it has the added benefit of the travel agent being able to explain vegan requirements.

I was fortunate to be in Hakuba after a massive snow drop in April 2012.

It was probably the result of some good research by my travel agent (Jack Rabbit Travel in Motomachi, Yokohama) and perhaps a little good luck too (given that it's not something likely to be listed in Japanese travel literature!) that she discovered that the Hakuba Highland Hotel chefs are willing to cook delicious Japanese food for a visiting vegan. Their reportiore was, understandably, somewhat limited at first, but it grew over the course of my two visits, and included egg-less tempura and various hotpots (as in Taiwan, but with seaweed as a stock).

the morning view from my window at Hakuba Highland Hotel

2013 Update: The food was even better - and quite spectacular - in my recent trip. I can't recommend Hakuba Highland Hotel enough, but it's vital to let them know in advance that you're vegan.

a typical oishii vegan dinner at the Hakuba Highland Hotel

The food was beautifully prepared (of course) and I really enjoyed trying authentic Japanese cuisine cooked by a local chef. Portions were generously sized, and a couple of times they brought out so much for breakfast (which I had to cook myself over a burner) that I nearly missed the shuttle to the skifield. 

Cooking the range of foods over the flame was quite a novelty. Allow plenty of time for these breakfasts!

But all this breakfast requires is some serious eating.

2013 addition: It just keeps getting better and better!

The mochis (top right) were pre-cooked, but they also gave me a burner to heat them up.

2013: Daiya may not have made it into the Japanese culinary world yet, but I was so sure the cheesy topping on the potato really was that I apologised and said I couldn't eat cheese. The mildly-offended waiter explained that it was made of soybean powder. Their chef is amazing!

I'm not a big fan of onsens, but the Hakuba Highland Hotel also has a nice outdoor onsen, and it's a great way to soak tired limbs after skiing, with a mountain view and snow almost up to the edge of the (covered) bath itself. The hotel is warm, clean and friendly, and a short, free shuttle-ride from the train station (where the bus from Nagano Station stops) and the ski fields.

Nearby on the slopes of Happo One Resort is the incredible Roots Cafe. It is owned by Evergreen Outdoor Centre, which was started by Dave Enright eleven years ago, when he ran courses in avalanche safety and worked as a sole ski instructor. From there the business has grown into a hive of year-round outdoor education activities. I have been pleased with my ski lessons over the last year.

Almost-vegan Roots Cafe, Happo One Ski Resort

 Five years ago Dave started Roots Cafe as a way of giving back to the community. Not only does it use locally produced vegetables and organic rice, but Dave grows some of the produce himself during the summer months. It also holds regular charity events, including one event which raised enough money to buy and deliver a new tractor for a tsunami-stricken village in Tohoku.

Roots cafe has now grown into a busy cafe, and you'll be lucky to find a seat during the busy lunch period around midday. What I tend to do is come early (say between 10:00 and 11:00) and then again for a late afternoon snack around 3:00 - 4:00, to tide me over to dinner. Note that the main courses (eg the wraps) are only available until 2:30, but there are plenty of snacks available afterwards. They also sell baked goods which are ideal for quick snacks on the ski lifts.

Snack time. Wrapped bars and biscuits are fresh from the oven, and make great snacks for the ski lifts. The tea was good too.

Unfortunately on my first visit, I simply didn't know about them, and found out by chance from a vegetarian ski instructor on my last day, and on my second visit (in April, partly to try this cafe), it had closed for the season the day before I arrived. I finally made it here in February 2013, and wasn't disappointed. It just makes the whole ski experience so much nicer when hot vegan food is so easily available.

How many ski slopes are there in the world where one can find hummus and pita platters right on the slopes?

The food is simple, healthy and delicious, and very suited to a hungry, non-vegan ski-boot-clad clientele, both Japanese and foreign. They use organic rice, and locally grown vegetables.

Lunches like this Mexican Wrap are available until 2:30.

But the Soup of the Day (here Minestrone) and snacks like these Soy Karage balls are available all day.

Cows milk is available for drinks upon request, and their burger buns contain milk powder (because they are bought from outside) but otherwise everything is vegan. Some sauces contain honey, so if you don't eat honey, then ask which products contain it (and please read this article).

The range of wraps (including falafel) were my favourite, but they also had this Chinese dish and an Indian-style curry.

Roots Cafe (and Evergreen Outdoor Centre) is on the slopes of Kokusai. The Hakuba Highland Hotel shuttle bus stops at the Gondola, from which it's possible to get to Kokusai by skiing either of the former Olympic routes (black runs). It should also be possible on green runs, but it's a bit more complicated (check a piste map). Alternatively, it's only a five to ten minute walk around the base of the mountain.

I recommend eating twice at Roots Cafe - preferably first before 11AM, and the next before the 2:30 finish of main dishes (snacks are available until 4:30) - and at the Hakuba Highland Hotel, but should you find yourself in Hakuba in need of food in the evening, the only Indian (and Nepalese) restaurant, Hindi Momo, has two vegan main dishes, Dahl and a Spinach-tomato curry, and the owner was happy to explain what was vegan. I found the dahl to be the best of the two.

Dahl and rice from Hindi Momo, Hakuba

August 2013 Edit: On my original post (on my Vegan Taiwan blog) I noted that the nearby Goryu resort has a Subway restaurant, but have since learned that the breads (like virtually all of the sauces) all contain dairy products, so I don't recommend going anywhere other than Hakuba.

Also in Nagano (a train, bus and walk from Nagano Station) are the famous snow-monkeys (Japanese macaques which bathe in "onsens" during winter. I haven't (yet) been, and am undecided about whether or not to. So far as I can tell, including from accounts by people who have visited, there are no issues of abuse, and the monkeys are not in any form of dependence or captivity. Feeding them, for example, is prohibited so as to prevent them becoming dependent on humans. One could argue that humans are intruding on the monkeys habitat, with swarms of tourists pouring through daily, while however it is a perfect opportunity for the public to see and experience the sentience of non-human animals in their natural habitat. If you do go, please let me know what you think.

View Hakuba Vegan Spots in a larger map

GALA YUZAWA
Gala Yuzawa is where Tokyoites go for a day on the ski slopes. The station is owned and run by the JR Company, and the shinkansen station, locker rooms and gondola entrance are all in the same building - Japanese efficiency at its best. Being owned by JR, they offer an excellent package including the train (about 1.5 hours each way) and a lift ticket for around 10 000 Yen (depending on the time of year). This is less than the train itself, so the lift pass is essentially thrown in free. Tickets can be bought from major JR stations.

It tends to get quite crowded on weekends, especially with young snowboarders who seem to come more as a social outing, and they often sit down and talk on the pistes - beware. However, for a day on the ski slopes from Tokyo, this is the place to come.

Food wise, it's the standard green salad, chips ("fried potatoes") and a bowl of white rice. I always bring snack food with me.

ramen and rice with soymeat from T's Tantan in Tokyo Station

Since the shinkansen goes back to Tokyo station, on the way back is a perfect time to go to T's Tantan, the vegan ramen restaurant located inside the train station itself and not far from the Shinkansen entrance. It's located on Keiyo Street (an underground food "street") inside the gates of the station itself.

HOKKAIDO
Niseko is a Meka for snow sports, boasting what some would call the best powder snow in the world (though Hakuba is also excellent). I visited three ski fields: Niseko, Kokusai and Mt Moiwa. Whereever you go, if you take just one piece of advice from this blog, bring plenty of snack food with you. Due to my late order and the Xmas backlog, my veganessentials order didn't arrive before I left, and I could really have done with all those snack bars I'd ordered, especially while travelling and on the slopes!

Getting There
The best way to get to Hokkaido for the environment is of course the train, and it's an interesting day's journey (or more if you stop off along the way) to take the shinkansen to Aomori and then an interesting trip through the world's longest undersea tunnel to Hokkaido, the Seikan Tunnel. (The Channel Tunnel has a longer undersea portion, however the the Seikan Tunnel is the longest and also the deepest rail tunnel). If you have a Japan Rail Pass (almost an essential for tourists who plan on leaving the Greater Tokyo are) it's all covered by the JR Pass, unless you want an expensive sleeper berth.

If you do fly, New Chitose Airport is about an hour and a half's flight from Tokyo, and flights leave from both Haneda and Narita airports. There is a Starbucks on the third floor. (Starbucks is usually the only place one can find soymilk, with an exception being Niseko, thanks to all the Australians). Also, the conveyor-belt sushi restaurant nearby has a few vegan options, including pickled plum, cucumber and gourd; these three can be found in sushi restaurants all over Japan, and are usually vegan. There are small dipping bowls for soy sauce under the conveyor belt for sushi, and ginger is in a box on the table. The powdered green tea is free (help yourself). Just don't be tempted by the deep fried squid legs or the  crab intestine sushi, quite a bargain at only 200 and 300 Yen respectively.

sushi from the conveyor belt restaurant near Starbucks, 3rd floor New Chitose Airport

Niseko
Niseko is almost a 'little Australia', and during the Xmas period I'd guess three quarters of people there, including many working in the restaurants, are Aussies, and most of the rest also foreigners, including many from Hong Kong and Singapore.

On the slopes themselves, food is mostly a matter of survival. Most places will serve white rice and "fried potatoes". King Bell on the Hirafu Slopes serve pizzas with dairy-free bases, and a pizza base with tomato sauce and basil was better than it sounded, even by the fourth one.
The Grand Hirafu Area was also the best area for night skiing, largely because the Gondola runs until late.

Best on the Niseko slopes: a vegan pizza base, chips and rice from King Bell in the Grand Hirafu  ski area.

At Annupuri, my favourite of the four ski areas, the Nook do a green salad, rice and "friend potatoes" - usual vegan fare. Beware that the last bus back to Hirafu leaves just after 8PM - I found out the hard way that it's a long taxi ride around the mountain, as easy as it seems to ski over it.

Best of Annupuri: a vegan lunch at the Nook, Annupuri ski area.

The Niseko Village Area area was the worst, with the restaurants (including the Lookout Cafe on the slopes) seemingly dominated by the Hilton Hotel, with food and prices to match. I couldn't find anything vegan, and prices for drinks were ridiculous. I don't recommend this area.

I never made it to the Hanozono Resort Area, so if there's a vegan cafe there I missed it.

For dinner, or a break during lunch, walk or take the shuttle bus to the Taj Mahal restaurant, about half a kilometre from the Grand Hirafu area. They were happy to make food vegan (and clearly made the effort to check ingredients) and the food, while the typical North Indian fare found all over Japan, was excellent.

On Sunday they have a buffet. Needless to say, little of it (basically Pappadoms and one curry) was vegan, but they cooked me roti, an additional Channa Masala and offered alternatives to other items not vegan. All up, it was a great deal at 1950 Yen (my other meals there were about the same price). The owner, originally from Bombay, has lived in Japan for fourty years, and he also has branches in Chitose (near the airport) and Sapporo. The Taj Mahal is the obvious choice for dinners or a good satisfying lunch while at Niseko.

A vegan modification of the Sunday buffet meal at the Taj Mahal - a great deal at 1950 Yen!

They also have two buses/vans in the area, one by Seicomart, offering hot food on the go. I found the quality (not surprisingly) much lower than the restaurant, so it's well worth the walk to get the food fresh from the kitchen rather than from the microwave.

Kokusai
Kokusai, which literally translates to 'international' (though I only saw one other foreigner there, among several hundred Japanese - quite the opposite of Niseko) is about a two hour bus ride from Sapporo Station. Compared to Niseko, I found its runs to be longer and wider, and I enjoyed skiing there a lot.

the view from outside the gondola at Kokusai Ski Resort

It also has two Gondolas to near the top of the mountain, so this and the wide, long runs meant that a greater proportion of my time was spent skiing than on chairlifts or in cues than at other skifields.

Kokusai base

once the sun came out, the views from the gondola were spectacular

Don't expect much for lunch though. The only thing I could find at all (other than french fries) was freshly baked sweet potato (that's kumara for any kiwis reading this) from the dining area to the far right in this photo.

enter at the far right of this building (as seen from this direction) and sweet potato are sold at the first counter.

morning tea, lunch (and dinner if you stay long enough) at Kokusai Ski Resort

Mt Moiwa Ski Resort
For a more family affair, head to Mt Moiwa Ski field, near Sapporo. This is where families come for a day skiing, and where working folk duck by for a quick night ski after work. Facilities here are very simple, and food very basic. I found nothing vegan except fries and rice.

Mt Moiwa Ski area, close to Sapporo

Note: I am writing about the Mt Moiwa near central Sapporo. There is a much larger Mt Moiwa Ski resort close to Niseko, which I didn't go to. Also note that this is a skier only area (no snowboarding).

The views of Sapporo were amazing!

To get there, take the subway to Makomanai Station, and then there is a shuttle bus (or a taxi) from there.

my favourite run at Mt Moiwa

SAPPORO

If you're in Hokkaido, chances are you'll go to Sapporo. I found it to be a very pleasant, liveable city. Being a planned city, it has straight, wide streets, and a central park-like avenue (Oodori) running right through the centre. It reminded me very much of Christchurch (especially with the hills in the distance) and of Kaohsiung, which was probably planned and built by Japanese at around the same time.

Oodori, central Sapporo

 I recommend three places to eat in Sapporo, all from Happycow.

Aoi Sora Organic Cafe
Being Sapporo's only vegetarian cafe (it's actually vegan and organic) this should be top of the list. The meal was fresh and delicious (such a change from days of rice and French fries) and the friendly owner speaks good English. It's well worth the effort to get there.

a set lunch from Ao Sora Organic Cafe, Sapporo

Iki Laboratory
Iki Laboratory (it's really a restaurant) labels many items on its menu 'vegan' and 'oriental vegetarian' (全素 - no garlic or onion). Portions were small (as normal in Japan) but for such excellent food, it was still good value. 

potato salad from Iki Laboratory

I think these were made from gluten, but I can't remember what they were called.

parfait - Iki Laboratory

Jyoto
Jyoti is an Indian restaurant right in central Sapporo. It serves typical but delicious North Indian food. It's friendly owner, Mahavira, is vegetarian, and uses separate utensils for his own food and vegetarian customers. I twice had the vegetarian set, with a Lacha Paratha (a kind of flaky bread which I'd never tried before) instead of the Naan. The staff were friendly and efficient and the food was excellent.

starters at Jyoti, central Sapporo

Lacha Parathi, dal and vegetable curry from Jyoti

Outing: Hakone

A popular day-trip from Tokyo is Hakone, a small town about two hours from Tokyo. While it's famous for its beautiful views of Mount Fuji (when it's not shrouded in cloud) and geothermal activity - including a region unsafe for asthmatics due to the sulphur content of the air - Hakone's novel attraction is the possibility of riding five modes of transport: a (somewhat tacky) pirate ship across a beautiful lake, a gondola, a cable car, a switchback train and an ordinary train.

Hakone is famous for its views of Mount Fuji.

Aside from the different forms of transport, passengers can get off the gondola half way down (or up) and walk through a geothermal area high in sulpherous gases. Unfortunately the main attraction is considered to be black eggs cooked in the sulpherous water.

Owakudani (Great Boiling Valley) is not for the asthmatic.

There is plenty of information around about Hakone, however on my first visit my only meal of the day included a small bowl of fried rice with soy sauce and a few frozen vegetables, and even then only thanks to a kind-hearted foreigner who translated my strange needs to the bewildered staff of a tiny restaurant. However, second time around, my parents and I found this charming sushi jaunt run by a very helpful couple who understood quickly what we ate and didn't.

Hakone's only vegan meal can be found here, just before the Open Air Museum.

There are four types of vegan sushi available: cucumber and two root vegetables, and inari sushi (deep fried tofu pockets). The first three come in a set. These trays are great value at between 500 and 800 Yen each.

The sushi bar is located just outside Chukoku-no-mori station on the Hakone Tozan line (the switchback train). It's just outside the station on the way to the Open Air Museum. It's open from 9AM to 8PM, and is closed on Thursdays. Beware that the Open Air Museum closes at 5PM with the last admissions at 4:30, so if you've done the circuit starting with the pirate ship and intend to visit the museum, it might be best to visit the museum first, and have dinner here before making your way back to Tokyo. Alternatively, if you go around anti-clockwise, it might make a good lunch spot. Generally which way around one goes is worked out by when the odds are best from seeing Mt Fuji, and whether one wants to see it from the lake or the mountains (while on the gondola and at the geothermal area).

After a long day exploring Hakone, this fresh, delicious sushi is just what is needed.

These dishes are all common sushi dishes which can be found all over Japan, particularly at kaiten sushi (conveyor belt) restaurants and often even at grocery stores and even convenience stores. While visiting Japan one should try eating these, though they may sometimes be all you can find, especially in more remote areas, however what makes these worth blogging about is that they are, as far as I can tell, the only vegan food in Hakone.

Being regarded as a top tourist attraction from Tokyo, and a fun day out (or overnighter), it seems worth mentioning on this blog where vegan food can be found, however beware that Hakone can get very crowded, especially during the weekend, and can feel very 'packaged', particularly on the transport circuit. So Hakone may not be for everyone. If you do go I recommend spending at least a couple of days there, preferably not on a weekend (or popular holiday period) and spending one day off the tourist route exploring the area on foot. I enjoyed walking the Old Hakone Highway.

Outing: Kamakura

Kamakura is a charming seaside little town about an hour from Tokyo, famous for its beach and temples. It was the de facto capital of Japan during the Kamakura Period from 1185 to 1333, during which time Japan was ruled by the Kamakura Shoganate and the famous samurai class emerged. Kamakura is a popular day or overnight trip from Tokyo.

The 750-year-old Daibutsu (big Buddha) is Kamakura's icon.

The temples are beautiful, and there are some nice walks around the place.

The Daibutsu Hiking Path is a beautiful escape from the city. It takes about an hour from  Jochi-ji Temple to the Daibutsu. 

 It's also possible to cycle to Kamakura from Tokyo (or Yokohama) but there isn't a good route, so expect lots of traffic.

For a few weeks during the summer vacation period the beaches really comes alive, with locker, changing and shower facilities being erected on the sand, and crowds flocking to swim, sunbathe and just enjoy the beach environment.

beach facilities being constructed in late June

Yuigahama Beach
Yuigahama is the easiest beach to reach, being a short ride on the tram (Enoden / electric railway) from Kamakura station. The beach also becomes a real party-zone, with beach-side bars and dance floors if that's your thing. All constructions disappear promptly after the vacation period, at which time the beach returns to its former pristine state.  Beware of jellyfish in the water during the really warm months - I learned the hard way.

Yuigahama Beach at Kamakura comes alive during the hot summer months.

Right across from Yuigahama Beach itself, is the veg-friendly Organic and Hemp Style Cafe and Bar.

The Organic & Hemp Style Cafe, Yuigahama Beach, Kamakura

The interior could be described as 'hippy", with a few hemp products for sale, and the food is excellent. While unfortunately it's not vegan anymore, the staff all have a good understanding of veganism and I've never had any problems ordering delicious food.

the vegetarian dinner set at The Hemp Style Cafe, Kamakura

fried tempura and the best pickles I've ever eaten

Nearby in Hase are the expensive but very good Sairam,which offer deliicous, vegan meals with a beautiful waterfront view.

Zushi
Zushi is like a smaller, quieter Kamakura, also with a beach and a few temples. And I was pleased to learn from a colleague recently that, like Kamakura, Zushi has a (mostly) vegan cafe. Beach Muffin serves a delicious range of baking, and vegan meals. The bakery is open from 9:30 to 7:00, and the cafe from 11AM (also to 7PM).

Beach Muffin, a mostly-vegan bakery and cafe, Kamakura

Unfortunately I arrived after the kitchen had closed (I guess about an hour before closing time), so only the bakery was open, but the cafe menu includes burgers and burritos.

herb tea and dessert from Beach Muffin

One thing that impresses me about Beach Muffin is how well they promote veganism to their non-vegan clientele.  However, beware that a few of the baked goods contain egg and dairy, and they are labelled in Japanese only, so it's important to specify that you are vegan when you order.

It's possible to take a bus from Yuigahama to Zushi, but as of June 2013, Google Maps isn't working properly for buses. Alternatively it will take about half an hour to reach Beach Muffin from Yuigahama (changing trains at Kamakura). It would also be a very pleasant 5 kilometre bike ride (or walk) along the beach.

View Vegan Kamakura in a larger map

Vegan Survival in Japan

Updated March, 2020, amid the COVID-19 outbreak.


It's becoming easier and easier to be vegan in Japan, but sometimes a vegan meal cannot be found, especially outside the main city centres. Here's a guide to how to survive in Japan when there are no vegan restaurants around or you just don't can't make it to one.

Convenience Stores

Since they can be found all over Japan, I'll start with convenience stores. I'll cover some common options and common traps, but this site on vegan products in Japan is much more comprehensive than what I have here. If you would like to know if a product is vegan, please feel free to post a photo to the IsitVeganJapan Facebook group.

Macrobiotic Cookies

These macrobiotic snacks at many convenience stores all over Japan. In my experience, Lawsons are the most reliable for finding them. I like the chocolate brownie the most, and it's also the most commonly available, and is even sold at some small convenience stores inside train stations. Flavours change from time to time, but they have been available for several years and have always been vegan, so I don't expect that to change, especially with the rapidly growing vegan market. 

The whole range of these macrobiotic cookies are all vegan.

Other Vegan Options Available at Most Convenience Stores

As good as it usually gets from a konbini (convenience store): a black coffee, soymilk (mix for a latte), a plain rice ball and edamame (soybeans).

Edamame (triangular packet above) are just whole soybeans (in their pods) cooked in vegetable oil, with added salt. Black coffee is of course vegan, and the soymilk shown above is vegan, and can be mixed to make a latte. You'll find better coffee at Starbucks and Tully's, but this is as good as it usually gets in the inaka (countryside) when it comes to coffee. The plain rice onigiri (rice ball, shown in the photo above) is vegan because it just contains rice and salt.

Soyjoy Crispy bars are vegan, however the regular (not crispy) ones contain egg.

Only the Crispy Series are vegan. Others contain egg. 

Convenience Store Items Which are Usually Not Vegan but Look Like They Are

There is currently talk of a new labelling system will be introduced to Japan ahead of the Tokyo Olympics (if they still happen with the COVID-19 outbreak) which will encourage manufacturers to specify whether or not their products are vegan. But unfortunately virtually all products at convenience stores contain animal products or ingredients which may or may not be from animals. The worst offender is amino acids, which are probably just synthetic flavourings (most likely MSG) but they could also be derived from fish. I suggest never assuming something is vegan unless you can read and translate all the ingredients.


Many vegans mistakenly assume inari sushi (rice in tofu pockets, shown immediately below) are vegan; however, most contain fish stock or other animal-derived ingredients in the rice mixture, and some even contain tiny pieces of meat. As of March 2020 I am unaware of any vegan inari sushi available at convenience stores in Japan.

These Inari Sushi are safely vegan, because they're from Taiwan. But most in Japan probably aren't, despite popular belief to the contrary. Some contain meat and most contain stocks or suspect amino acids.

Sometimes vegan onigiri (triangular rice pockets) come and go, but most contain fish derivatives or unknown amino acids (which may be derived from fish -- see above).

Breads from convenience stores always contain dairy and/or egg.

Most convenience stores sell bags of nuts, but watch out for small fish in them (I'm not joking). Some are cooked in butter oil (shown below); to further complicate it, some "butter peanuts" are actually cooked in vegetable oil, with the 'butter' just being a name.

Never Be Too Careful: it didn't occur to me to check the ingredients of these peanuts, which are cooked in butter oil (バターオイル)  and even have a red warning that they contain dairy products.

Tofu

Tofu is usually but not always vegan. If it's set with nigari (にがり, traditional, vegan) it should be vegan, but some (usually cheaper) tofu is set with glycerine (グリセリン), which may be animal-derived.

Fried Potatoes (Chips, French Fries)

Chips (French Fries), known as 'Fried Potato' in Japan, are sold all over the country, including in many convenience stores. Most ones for sale in supermarkets don't contain any animal ingredients (they are generally just potato and a cheap oil) and, according to their allergen charts, 7-11 ones do not contain beef, chicken, pork, fish, dairy or egg, so they should be vegan. At other restaurants there are always concerns over what seasonings may be used (and it's never possible to really find out) but they are a possibility. Of course, they are cooked in the same deep fryer as meat and other animal products.

Family Mart Vegan Meals

Family Mart Promotional photo. 

On March 13, 2020, Family Mart has announced that from March 17th they will stock a vegan soy patty burger bowl for ¥500 in 2,400 branches in Tokyo. This will be the best-value convenience stores meal in the country when it comes available. 

7-Eleven Vegan Meals

In late 2019 the 7-Eleven chain announced that they would sell vegan meals in a selected number of convenience stores, mostly around Ueno (the suburb of Ueno with a large Indian community). Unfortunately, at the time of writing (March 2020) these stores are all in areas in which there are much better vegan options; however, they are clearly labelled 'vegan' in English, so if you find one I recommend trying it. 

Chain and other Non-Veg Restaurants

Coco Ichibanya

Cocos Ichibaniya curry. The eggplant is an optional extra, and the rice has been upgraded to a larger serving for an additional ¥200.

This famous Japanese curry chain has hundreds of branches across the country, usually in or near train stations and night life areas. Many stay open for most of the night. They are easily recognisable by their name (written in English) and logo, which consists of a curry and rice meal on a yellow background. If you can’t find a specific store, just show anyone the heading above, the photo of the curry, or the menu below, and they’ll point you in the right direction. 

Some branches serve vegan curries for a little under ¥1,000. These come on a separate vegetarian menu booklet (see photo below); however, the “vegetable” curry on the regular menu (which is available at all stores) contains meat. Also, the eggplant shown here is cooked in the same deep fryer as meat, but the curries which don’t have eggplant (easily identifiable from the photos on the menu) should be cooked in separate pots to the regular (meat) curries, but of course there is always possible contamination from utensils (see Deep Fryers). 

When the vegan curries were introduced the company ran a trial during which all branches were required to serve them, and after that branches were allowed to choose whether or not to continue to serve them. Unfortunately the branches which sold a lot and continue offering it are mostly ones in areas popular with foreign tourists, most of which are also places with real vegan restaurants. Thus Cocos is usually an option when you don’t need it and not an option when you do. But they are sometimes a good last resort when all the nearby vegan restaurants are all closed during the evening. 

Japanese curries are very different to Indian and Thai curries and are more like a sauce to accompany rice than a meal in themselves; however, it’s possible to have extra vegetables added to the curry, and to ask for a larger amount of rice. Both additions can be seen in the photo above.  Customers also choose a level of spiciness from 1 to 10, with the higher levels costing a tiny bit more. The spiciness tastes as if it comes from pepper more than from chili peppers. As someone who enjoys Indian food made by and for Indians, I find Level 4 mild, level 5 a comfortable degree of spiciness, and level 6 uncomfortably hot. Unfortunately, vegans can’t make it less spicy than the default option because a sweet sauce which contains honey is added. 

In March 2020 some branches have just introduced a soy meat cutlet, to replace a popular animal-based alternative with Japanese curries. It is only available in a few branches, but if you find it on the menu I suggest trying it, because it gets great reviews. 

Only these curries are vegan. The regular "vegetable" curries contain meat. 

Soup Stock Tokyo

Soup Stock Tokyo, whose empire now expands well beyond their namesake capital, have been the most vegan-friendly food chain in Japan for many years, perhaps equal now with Cocos Ichibanya.

Soup Stock Tokyo have announced that every branch will always have one "veg" option available. These contain no meat, dairy or egg products, but they may contain honey. All stores offers bilingual lists of ingredients (which are generally wholesome and healthy) for all of their products, and most branches employ at least one English-speaking staff member who is usually happy to help a hungry vegan foreigner check what they can eat; however, they will probably not understand veganism, so it’s important to check the ingredients list yourself. This has become easier since they recently posted their menu (and allergen chart) online. Fortunately the soups don’t contain any food additives, which makes it easy to determine whether or not they vegan.

Stores also sell frozen soup mixes, which are great if you are staying in a hostel or apartment with a kitchen available. Occasionally, during off-peak hours, staff may kindly offer to cook up a vegan soup if there isn’t one on offer that day; however, this should never be asked for or expected. Rice is of course vegan, and their focaccia bread usually is too, but I recommend asking if you can check the ingredients of anything you order.

Chabuton

Chabuton are a chain ramen restaurant, which offer two vegan dishes: ramen and gyoza (dumplings). The ramen aren't bad at all, and it's good to show demand for a vegan dish, but of course it's no substitute for T's Tantan in Tokyo Station, the all-vegan ramen and curry restaurant in Tokyo Station.

A bowl of vegan ramen from Chabuton (Yokohama branch)

While the staff should know how to cook the ramen by the ("100% vegetable") recipe, don't expect them to know or understand anything about veganism (or most likely speak much English) so assume that any condiments supplied aren't vegan.

Other Non-Veg Restaurants

There are many chain stores such as Jonathons which serve simple Japanese-style food. Most will serve chips (fried potato, which may or may not be vegan) and white rice, and an all-you-can-drink (non-alcoholic) "drinks bar". Jonathon's also serve baked potatoes, so it's possible to order one without the butter or meat filling. These places may be a last resort at times, but that's all they should be.

Don't Go To Subway
For a long time I ate at subway restaurants, assuming that the bread followed international recipes. I have since learned though that the breads all contain dairy products. Also, another 'surprise' many years ago was that the red wine vinaigrette contains microscopic pieces of bacon (yes, really) and the 'chili-tomato' sauce also contains meat. So an 'oil-vinegar-salt-pepper' salad might be okay, but my suggestion is to stay away from Subway restaurants.

Don't Eat at 'Normal' Restaurants

People often join Facebook groups about Japan and ask how they can order vegan (or vegetarian) food at 'normal' Japanese restaurants. And the answer is: you don't. On the first page of my Vegan Travel Guide to Taiwan I have a few sentences in Chinese which readers can show to staff at a regular restaurant to order vegan noodles. I don't have this in my Vegan Travel Guide to Japan because it's simply not possible, even for Japanese or native speakers.

The owner/cook at this pension (traditional rural accommodation) took great care to prepare me a vegan breakfast. Unfortunately, she inadvertently added dashi (fish) flakes to the soy sauce with the tofu (not visible in this photo). Even if arranged in advance as this was, it's rare to successfully order vegan food at non-vegan establishments. And for non-Japanese speakers who haven't given advanced notice, it's virtually impossible. 

Especially Stay Away from Tofu and "Vegetable" Restaurants

Japan has many restaurants dedicated to tofu, and these are often the first suggestions to vegans looking for food (especially by foreigners). Unfortunately, however, these are actually the worst restaurants to go to, as the stocks used (virtually) all contain fish products.

Coffee Shops

Starbucks and Tully's coffee stores offer soymilk. For more information, please see my post on vegan options at coffee shops in Japan.

Final Tip for Survival in Japan 

Carry Bread

Virtually all breads, including those sold at convenience stores, contains milk and/or egg products. There are a few exceptions, generally specialty European bakeries (which will sell you the most expensive bread you'll buy in your life) and a few supermarkets, which often label whether their breads contain milk or egg products (for people with allergies).

Buy a loaf of bread from an organic shop (or order it online from Alishan Organics / Tengu Natural Food) and carry it with you (most bread in Japan isn't vegan). Please beware that many bakeries label allergens (including milk and egg) but may not include lard, so be sure to ask or buy imported bread from an organic shop with ingredients labelled in English (or German, as many breads here are). It will last anything from a few days (Tokyo in summer) to a week or longer (Hokkaido in winter). Hotel breakfasts (which usually only have white rice, salad and fresh or tinned fruit) often have a toaster oven and breads, so it's possible to carry in a few slices in a Ziplock bag and cook it in the oven yourself. They often even have jam to eat it with. A few slices of toast with jam goes a long way if you need to wait for cafes to open for lunch. This post is about survival, after all.

Veg'n Events in Tokyo

While it's not London or New York, Tokyo has a few events of interest to resident or travelling vegans.

The Tokyo Veg Festa (vegetarian festival) in October is the year's largest event, and it sees thousands of people visit dozens of stalls, most of which seem to do a roaring trade. Many organic and vegan restaurants and stores have stalls, and prices are generally good (I think lower than usual retain prices). I bought some Vegan Earth shoes while visiting the festival from Taiwan three years ago, and still wear them. All food served and sold is vegan (though it wouldn't hurt to check).

The annual Tokyo Veg Festa draws attracts thousands.

The Loving Hut seems to have a permanent long line.

Almost as good is the Earth Day Festival in April, which also features a lot of vegetarian (and organic) food.

Earth Day 2012

A distant third is the 'Eco Life' festival (June), which from my experience in 2013 was worth passing by for a meal from the Loving Hut, but not for much else.


The annual anti-fur march (also in October) draws a few hundred people.

The 2012 Anti-fur march is about to depart for a 1.5-hour walk through the nearby fashion districts. 

All three festivals are held opposite NHK Hall, on the edge of Yoyogi Park. The anti-fur march also leaves from the same location.

View Vegetarian Festival Location in a larger map

Whether visiting or living in Tokyo, it's well worth going to a vegan meetup, especially the monthly Pink Cow buffets. The food is excellent (usually my best meal of the month), and it's a good chance to meet veg-minded and English-speaking (but not usually vegetarian) Japanese, and an eclectic mix of foreigners. Note that the majority of people there are not veg'n, and some don't even 'get it', not that this matters: it's great to see so many people enjoying a vegan meal. On one of my first meetups, after introducing myself to a resident foreigner in Tokyo as we cued up for the buffet, I mentioned that I was from New Zealand and he quickly told me how much he loved NZ because the fly fishing was so good.

I'm yet to master the fine Japanese art of making food *look* good on my plate, but this meal at the monthly Pink Cow vegan meetups is usually my best meal of the month.

It's not just the trains: this Yokohama anti-fur march - walkable from my apartment - was due to start at 1PM.

Coffee Shops in Japan (updated March 2021)

Updated March 2021

If you want anything other than black coffee, then head to Starbucks, Tully’s or Doutor. Even though Japan is probably the last place on Earth you’d expect your soy order to be confused, just to be extra careful the cashier staff give a ‘soy’ card to the customer, which is returned to the barrister upon collection of the drink. At Starbucks there is a (vegan) Soy Latte as a separate menu item, and at both cafes, other drinks such as Matcha (Japanese tea) lattes can be made with soymilk for an additional ¥50. 

Like most white sugar used in Japan, the sugar used in drinks is probably processed using bone char. Starbucks recently confirmed that their sugar is processed with chitosan, a substance obtained from crustaceans which is widely used in the food industry (including being sprayed on bananas) and in many industrial applications. 

Most major coffee shop chains (including Starbucks and Tully’s) offer free Wifi, but many smaller coffee shops don’t. 

Starbucks (🐖)

This card is given at the counter and returned upon receiving the drink - a sure way to know that you're soy drink really is. 

In early 2020 Starbucks trialled almond milk and oat milk, but these have been discontinued in all except a few special stores. While this could change with the growing number of vegans and health-conscious people avoiding dairy products, the hot chocolate mixture itself still contains dairy, but most staff don’t know this and will happily make a “soy hot chocolate” (with dairy in the mix) if asked. 

Tully's  (🐖)

Tully’s are fast becoming the go-to option for a coffee and quite bite to eat for vegans. In early 2021 they have re-introduced an almond praline soy latte, which has a mock whipped cream topping. There has been much effort by the vegan community (especially the excellent ➚isitveganjapan.com➚ group and their ➚Facebook page➚) to determine whether or not it is vegan. It appears that it contains only plant-based ingredients, but it has allergen warnings for dairy, and unfortunately the company won’t confirm whether this warning is because of possible traces of dairy from cross contamination or whether a tiny amount of dairy is added somewhere in the manufacturing process. Most vegans trust that it is vegan. 

They have also recently introduced a falafel pita sandwich for ¥400. It contains literally only one falafel ball, making it no match for falafel offered by vegan falafel restaurants in Tokyo (such as Falafel Brothers in Roppongi) but it’s next best after Dotour (see below) so far as coffee shop chains in Japan go.  Their tomato sauce pasta can be made vegan if the bacon is left off the top (it’s normally added at the end) but I only recommend this to Japanese-speaking vegans who are able to confirm that it’s vegan with the staff. 

Doutor (🐖)

In September 2020 the large Doutor coffee chain began offering a vegan (“Green”) burger. It’s been a big hit with the vegan community, and is well priced at only ¥360, making it one of the best go-to snacks available in Japan. Hopefully it will be here to stay. Doutor’s coffee and dining experience is overall cheaper and inferior to Starbucks and Tully’s, but this burger makes it by far the best chain store for vegans.