Wednesday 25 March 2020

Vegan Restaurants In and Around Fukuoka


Updated March 2020, as tourist sites in Japan empty out as COVID-19 restricts inbound tourism and most non-essential travel.


Maizuru Park is Fukuoka's Largest Backyard and home to its castle ruins.

Fukuoka is a very live-able city and an interesting one to visit, but few tourists to Japan spend long here because there are far more historical sites in Kyoto and much more to see and do in Tokyo and Osaka. Many foreign visitors do, however, arrive in Fukuoka by boat from Korea.

The vegan scene in Fukuoka has improved drastically over the last few years, with good options both within the city and a short train ride away. If you have more than a day in the city I recommend taking the short trip to at least one of Funadeya or Haze Rouge. Nevertheless, if you have less than two weeks in Japan I don't recommend more than a half-day in the city, but I recommend that everyone with a Japan Rail Pass at least stop at the station to pick up some bentos from Evah Dining (see below).

Orientation




Fukuoka is a merger of the two former municipalities, Fukuoka and Hakata, with both names commonly used to describe the city. Most significantly, Hakata is the name given to the main station (for Shinkansens) and is the commercial hub, but Tenjin (five minutes away on the Airport Line, or a half hour walk) is the cultural and certain culinary heart of Fukuoka, especially for vegans. It would be better, if possible, to stay around that area, but the city is covered well enough by buses and the subway that transport isn't a problem at all. Note that the only "Fukuoka Station" is in fact in Toyama Prefecture.

Vegan Restaurants in Fukuoka

Evah Dining (Vegan Cafe and Bentos)

As Evah expand their empire they are opening more and more kiosks around Fukuoka, but these are the two which are of the most interest to foreign visitors, because the kiosk in Hakata Station is so good for travellers, and because the Riverrain Mall branch offers dine-in meals. If you are not passing through Hakata Station (the Fukuoka shinkansen station) and you would like bentos (boxed meals) then I suggest searching on Happycow for the nearest branch to you.


Evah Dining Hakata Station Kiosk
1-1 Hakataekichuogai Hakata-ku Fukuoka Fukuoka
福岡県福岡市博多区博多駅中央街1-1 JR博多シティ1F
092-483-2262
Lunchboxes often begin selling out mid-evening.


Evah Dining Cafe

福岡市博多区下川端町3-1
10:30 - 22:00 (Last Order: 21:30)
Lunch Menu: 11:00-15:00
c092-713-6033

The vegan heart of Fukuoka is the famous Evah Dining, the city's famous vegan pioneer which is now becoming a little empire of kiosks selling vegan bentos (meal boxes). 

Bento (Lunchbox) Kiosks

A bento from Evah Dining on the Shinkansen (800 Yen)

Evah are best known for their incredible bentos, or Japanese lunchboxes, which are available in two outlets in Hakata Station and several other branches around Fukuoka (see above). They are especially good for taking to Maizuru Park or Ohori Park (the heart of Fukuoka, famous for its castle ruins). A small meal starts at around ¥500, and a take-out feast can be had for ¥1,000. While it's generally food which doesn't keep too well, consider getting one for the next day's breakfast if you'll be up early to explore the city. If you are passing through Fukuoka on the shinkansen it's worth stopping by to stock up on the day's food. The largest kiosk is the easiest to find, and is in Ippin Dori "street" (inside the station, so not really a street), not far from the main  Shinkansen ticket gate. If in doubt just ask at information where Evah Dining (エヴァダイニング) is.

Café in Riverrain Mall




If you would prefer to eat in a cafe, Evah run this cafe inside the Riverrain shopping mall. It's a shadow of its former self as one of Japan's best and best-value vegan restaurants, but if you just want an easy, affordable vegan meal it's worth a visit.Portions, which mostly cost from ¥800-¥1000, are small, so I recommend ordering a couple per person. As usual for Japan, lunch sets are better value.
The mall is closest to Nakasukawabata Station, two stops from Hakata Station on the Kuko Line . Car parking is available.


Coffee Hiruneko

Hiruneko is temporarily closed from June 2019, and is likely to open sometime soon (as of March 2020), so please check their Facebook page for an update. Thank you.
092-771-7899

FacebookWebsite,  Happycow (as Hiruneko Shokudo)
 


The friendly vegan owners of this cat-themed cafe serve Fukuoka's best Western and international fusion food, including the best pizza in Fukuoka. It's open late and a great place to stop in for a coffee or satisfying meal.

Sky Walk (スカイウォーク)

Mon-Fri: 9:00-18:00; Sat-Sun & Holidays: 9:00-17:00.
3-1-28 Kego Chuo-ku Fukuoka Fukuoka.
福岡県 福岡市中央区 警固 3-1-28 アーバン警固 1F
092-791-8312



This charming, inexpensive little organic shop serves delicious sandwiches and smoothies in a small cafe. It's a very limited menu, but a great lunch option nonetheless. There is very little information about it online, but I can confirm that it's still open as of August 2019.

Haze Rouge

Lunch: 11:30-2:30 (LO); Dinner: 18:00-20:00 (LO)
(Reservations are required for dinner.)
(094) 227-6750
839-0827 福岡県久留米市山本町豊田1849-1
1849-1,Toyoda,Yamamoto-machi,Kurume-city,Fukuoka


In nearby Kurume is the incredible Haze Rouge, which serves some of the finest vegan macrobiotic food in Japan to guests who dine in their own room in this 120 year-old Japanese house in the inaka ( Japanese countryside). This experience is similar to eating the famed Shojin-Ryori (Japanese temple cuisine, best eaten in Kyoto or at Koyasan), however it uses Western tables and chairs and utensils, and the food is also more Western / international fusion in its style. Dining here is a unique experience, and with delicious, multi-course lunch sets starting at 1650 for a four-course menu or 2,950 for a five-course menu. Walk-ins are welcome for lunch, but reservations are required for dinner, which start at around 5,000 Yen.



To get there, take the Nishitetsu Tenjin Omita Line from Nishitetsu Fukuoka Station, and then transfer to Bus 25, and get off at Shimono (下野) stop after about twenty minutes. The whole journey from Fukuoka, including the pleasant ten-minute walk, should take about an hour and cost about a thousand Yen. If you have a Japan Rail Pass, more money than sense or are coming from the south already, Kurume Station is also a stop on the Kyushu Shinkansen. It would of course be easier with your own wheels, but don't let the public transport put you off.





Near Haze Rouge

 
The amazing Daihonzan Naritasan Kurume (Buddhist) Temple (久留米成田山) with its 62-metre high Kannnon statue . If you're there early enough (it close at 5PM) it's possible to climb up and look out the eyes of the Buddha, and to witness Buddhist Hell beneath the Buddha (500 Yen). Note that there's also another Naritasan Temple in the other Narita City in Chiba, best known for Tokyo's Narita International Airport. To get there from the restaurant it's necessary to change buses again at the Nishitetsu Bus Station.
See also: Wikitravel Kurume

Veggie Funadeya (船出屋)

Tue-Sun: 11:30-21:00 (Last order: 20:00)
福岡県 古賀市日吉3丁目17-12 
3 Chome-17-12 Hiyoshi, Koga, Fukuoka 811-3106
092-980-2631 (Please call first before visiting.)



The owners of Funadeya are passionate about promoting vegan food and animal rights, passion that's obvious by the animal rights stickers on the door and especially the quality of the food and generous portions. This is the place to come for a hearty, inexpensive feast while staying in Fukuoka. Set meals start at around 1000 Yen. Bentos (take-out lunchboxes) start at around 600 Yen.

Unfortunately for the casual visitor, Funadeya is near Shishibu Station, about half an hour north of Fukuoka on the JR Kagoshima Local Line (鹿児島本線). It's essential to call before travelling out there, as they sometimes close to run their catering service.It's not far from the station, but is a little tricky to reach, so it's best to use Google Maps (the directions link above will open directions from your current location).

Vegetarian Indian Restaurants in Tokyo in 2022

Updated March 2022

Summary of Veg Indian Restaurants in Tokyo

All these links stay in this page. 
For the best Indian meal in Tokyo, including mouth-watering South Indian dishes such as dosas and idli, head to Vege Herb Saga. While the restaurant has expanded in recent years and hired a few more staff members, food is still cooked individually from fresh ingredients, so you may have a wait for your food (but it will be worth it). For an alternative South Indian option, with a slightly nicer venue and not quite as good food, which serves alcohol and allows smoking at the tables, head to the Veg Kitchen around the corner. For a small, pleasant restaurant serving fairly authentic Indian food with an interesting Japanese twist, head to Gopinathas. For prasadam (blessed Hare Krishna food) head to Govindas Edogawa, where they have become increasingly willing to cater to vegans. They have the only evening vegetarian buffet in the weekend in Tokyo. And for insipid, overpriced "Indian" food in a setting as pleasant as an underground basement can possibly be, which is good for introducing "Indian" food to someone who has never eaten spicy food before (and doesn't want to try it) head to one of the many Nataraj chain stores.

Why Indian in Japan?

Japanese food is deservedly famous for its beautiful presentation; it's said that this practice stems from tougher times in the past, when little food was available, so presenting it so elegantly was the best people could do. Over time this came to be believed to make the food taste better -- something I've come to understand. I do appreciate a good bowl of ramen or plate of sushi, or a shojin ryori feast, but for me no arrangement of rice and vegetables, however freshly cooked or perfectly presented, can beat the fire and spice of an authentic Indian meal. This post is to introduce my favourite vegetarian Indian restaurants in Tokyo and to help vegetarian and vegan travellers to find food in Tokyo and elsewhere in Japan.


Vege Herb Saga ($$, ヴェジハーブサーガ, 🥛)

Go here because:  
You want the best Indian food in Tokyo.  
You want South Indian food

Tue-Sun: 11:00-14:30, 17:15-22:30; closed Mon.
Two minutes’ walk southeast of Okachimachi Station, South Exit 2 (for the JR Yamanote and Keihen/Tohoku lines) and one minute’s walk west of Naka-Okachimachi Station, Exit 2 (for the Hibiya subway line). 
110-0005 東京都台東区上野5丁目22 地下1 東鈴ビル
5-22-1, Ueno, Taito-ku, Tokyo
03-5818-4154
It’s like being in India.
It’s like being in India.
Hours can be irregular; it sometimes closes for long periods of time when the staff return to India. If closed, I recommend the nearby Veg Kitchen (see below).

Vege Herb Saga is my favourite restaurant in Tokyo, and I think I share this with most resident vegetarian Indians and in the city, as well as a surprising number of non-vegetarians and non-Indians. It's the 'real deal' for Jain and other vegetarian Indian food.

A Mysore Masala Dosa, my favourite dish, has a spicy potato filling and a chilli paste smeared over the inside of the dosa. 

Vege Herb Saga is a little piece of India, right here in Tokyo, down to the beaming chef in a white jacket and the steaming hot delicious South Indian foods, such as dosa and idli. The owner, Raja, regularly imports fresh spices from India (I've seen them be roasted on the same grill that will cook your Masala Dosa) and the effect on the flavour is certainly noticeable compared with all other Indian restaurants I've visited outside India. Resident Indians tell me that this extra effort - and expense - with the spices makes Veggie Herb Saga's food even better than what they can cook at home. Vege Herb Saga is the place to come for the best Indian food in Tokyo.

I recently met the owner, Raja, who explained that there are several hundred Jains (including himself) living in the surrounding community, mostly in the diamond trade. Jainism is the world's oldest religion of non-violence, from which the concept of Ahimsa (non-violence) comes. While many Jains do comsume dairy products (a tradition which goes back to an era in India when cows were treated at least as well as humans, millenia before factory farms) they don't eat root vegetables, as their harvesting kills insects and other creatures, and the plants themselves, so Jains prefer to eat foods which can be harvested without uprooting the plant. Jains, therefore, have even more difficulty finding food than vegans, so Raja opened Vege Herb Saga because he and his visiting business associates needed somewhere to eat.

During its first few years Veggie Herb Saga was housed in a rather unappealing basement, and customers would be expected to share tables with strangers (where I had many of the most interesting conversations I've had anywhere, with poeple who had sought out vegetarian Indian food); however, has since moved into a larger, more pleasant restaurant, which appears to be a converted Karaoke bar, and on one of my visits the owner whipped out the Karaoke equipment and began singing.
 
On a television show several years ago Vege Herb Saga won fifth place among all Indian restaurants in Tokyo, despite being its menu being all vegetarian. As a result it developed it attracted many Japanese who like Indian cuisine, many of whom would otherwise be unlikely to eat vegetarian food.

Jain Principles: No Smoking or Alcohol
While Jains don't eat root vegetables, it does serve them to non-Jains (including in the masala dosa shown in the photo above); this is normal for Jain restaurants, which are used to catering to non-Jain vegetarians. It also caters to vegans very well, with vegan items clearly labelled on the menu.  Fortunately, an increasing number of Jains (especially younger ones) are turning vegan, especially in the UK, as they learn about the realities of modern-day farming of cows. 

True to Jain principles, the restaurant does not serve alcohol or allow smoking, which are strictly forbidden in Jainism, Buddhism and most of the world's spiritual traditions. Like the Tokyo Loving Hut, this demonstrates a strong commitment to ethical and spiritual principles, because the standard restaurant business model in Japan is to 'give away' food and make a profit on drinks. Please bear this in mind if the restaurant appears expensive, although prices are only marginally higher than at other non-vegetarian Indian restaurants, and are excellent value given the quality of the spices and other ingredients, and the preparation which goes into each dish from a qualified and talented chef.

Menu & Prices
The menu is perhaps the largest of any Indian restaurant in Tokyo. It includes all popular North and South Indian favourites, and a few completely new dishes invented by the chef.  A drink, starter and main meal should come to ¥2000-¥3000. Vegan items are clearly labelled, but it's best to remind the waiter that you are vegan so can't eat any milk, butter, cream, ghee etc.


You're in India Now
I have a lot of respect for Jainism and am greateful to Raja (the owner) for running what is my favourite restaurant in Tokyo. Furthermore, the long-time staff member (who has been preparing my favourite meals for almost a decade) is one of the most warm and kind-hearted people I have ever met. I must warn, however, that this restaurant is run by Indian staff who come to work here straight from India, so they are not all familiar with the levels of formality and personal distance expected in Western and especially in Japanese culture. There are other small cultural differences which make some Western tourists feel uncomfortable; for example, staff have been known to rearrange food on the customer's plate as they give it to them to make it look perfect - a practice perfectly acceptable in India (where most people eat with their hands) but an absolute taboo in Japan, where most diners don't even touch their own food. As most of Vege Herb Saga's clientele are also Indian, this is not a problem for them, but some Western diners do take offence. While I have never had any of these experiences for many years (and the current staff have been there for years) if this sounds like it would put you off your meal then I recommend Gopinatha (see below).

Veg Kitchen ($$, 🥛)

Go here because:
You want to drink or smoke with your meal.
Veggie Herb Saga is closed between lunch and dinner.
You don't want to dine in a basement.

11:00-15:00, 17:00-20:00
A few minutes’ walk east of Naka-Okachimachi Station (for the Hibiya subway line) and Okachimachi Station (for the JR Yamanote and Keihen/Tohoku lines).
110-0016 東京都台東区台東3丁目44−8
3 Chome-44-8 Taito, Taitō, Tokyo 110-0016
03-5817-8165
The décor and dining experience are ‘better’ (or at least more predictable) than at Veggie Herb Saga.
Food is not as authentic (or, in my opinion, as good) as at Veggie Herb Saga.
Unlike Veggie Herb Saga, the Veg Kitchen serves alcohol, and sometimes allows diners to smoke at their tables.

This South Indian restaurant is run by a former chef from Veggie Herb Saga. When I heard he was leaving to run his own restaurant I hoped it would be an upmarket dining establishment, in a different locality, so that the two restaurants could fill different niches and complement each other.  But, unfortunately, he opened a few minutes walk away, and he serves similar food at similar prices to Vege Herb Saga, thus competing for the same Jain and other Indian vegetarian clientele.


2nd-floor dining

Prices at the Veg Kitchen are similar to Veggie Herb Saga, and staff are very friendly and welcoming at both. At first the Veg Kitchen stayed open between lunch and dinner, so I recommended it for then, but it now opens at almost identical hours to Vege Herb Saga. The Veg Kitchen is located in a two-story (above-ground) restaurant, so before Vege Herb Saga moved into its new premises I used to recommend the Veg Kitchen to people who wanted a nicer dining experience than Vege Herb Saga could offer. But now that neither of these differences apply, and since the food is better at Vege Herb Saga and prices are similar (see below) I can only recommend the Veg Kitchen for when Vege Herb Saga is closed unexpectedly, or for diners who want to drink or smoke with their meal (see below).

Menu and Food Quality

Like Vege Herb Saga, the Veg Kitchen also does great dosas, but in my opinion and experience they are not quite as good as at Vege Herb Saga.  

Food at the Veg Kitchen is at least as good as most other Indian restaurants in Japan, and serving South Indian they are among the most vegan-friendly too. But, in my opinion and experience, Veggie Herb Saga is a cut above for freshness and quality of food, and I believe that this is probably because Saga imports and roasts its own spices. The Veg Kitchen and Vege Herb Saga both serve similar North Indian and South Indian cuisine. While Vege Herb Saga offers more unique dishes which its chefs have developed in store, the Veg Kitchen serves Indian Chinese food. Personally, even though I like Indian and Chinese food, I'm not a fan of Indian Chinese food, because I find it too greasy and salty, but for many Western visitors it's a novel new cuisine style, and many Indians like it, especially people from large cities in India or other places where there is a significant Chinese or Tibetan population. 


This Indian-Chinese dish was too oily and salty for my taste.

Smoking and Drinking
Unlike the Veggie Herb Saga, where Jain principles strictly forbid drugs, the Veg Kitchen serves alcohol and allows customers to smoke at their tables. This may be a good or bad thing depending on the customer, but I much prefer the atmosphere (literally and figuratively) at Veggie Herb Saga. 


 The Veg Cafe serve alcohol, which may appeal to some, however they also allow smoking during dinner, which can be quite unpleasant (if you don't smoke). They also provide Hookah's which further add to the smoke in the air.


Vegan Items are Not Labelled
The friendly owner of the Veg Kitchen is very happy to accommodate vegans; however, it’s necessary to ask, and the first time he introduced the menu for me he missed some items which were clearly not vegan. He also said that nan were vegan, which is possible but very unlikely, because the menu traditionally calls for milk (and without it it’s not really nan), and it needs to be prepared the night before and fermented, so it can'b be made on the spot. Vegan items are labelled on the menu at Veggie Herb Saga and I’ve never been served anything with dairy products.


The Veg Kitchen are quite accommodating to vegans, but at Veggie Herb Saga vegan items are labelled on the menu.

Veg Kitchen or  Vege Herb Saga?

They're up the road from each other, and you'll probably only go to one, so... which one? Simply put, the Veg Kitchen would be a godsend anywhere in Japan except up the road from Vege Herb Saga. For me, the flavour of Vege Herb Saga dishes has the edge for the freshness of its spices, and I appreciate the Jain environment without the drinking or smoking. But it's clear that both serve excellent food and have a loyal following of Indian, Western and Japanese followers. They each offer a different South Indian dining experience, and I hope business continues to go well for both.


Vege Herb Saga and Veg Kitchen Map




Gopinatha ($$, 🥛)

Go here because:
You want to try Indian food with an interesting, Japanese twist.


Wed-Sun: 12:10-14:30, 18:00-20:00; closed Mon,Tue.
Five minutes’ walk east of Nakano Station, a few small blocks north of the railway line. Take the North Exit, and then use Google Maps (directions link below) as it’s located in a small alleyway and somewhat difficult to find otherwise.
164-0001 東京都中野区中野5丁目17−10
Nakano 5-Chome, 17-10
Excellent value meal sets, including both Indian and Japanese fusion food.
Difficult to find without Google Maps.


Gopinatha's food is perhaps somewhat 'Japanisiced' Indian cusine, in contrast to Vege Herb Saga and the Veg Kitchen, which serve Indian food just as it's served in India itself. Japanese cuisine is famed for its simplicity and how it brings out the natural flavours of ingredients, while Indian food is famed for the fragrances and flavours of its spices. While at Nataraj (see below) the Indian spices are simily diluted, turning what could have been a delicious curry into an insipid soup, the talented chef at Gopinatha somehow manages to fuse to very different cuisines into unique, fresh and flavoursome meals, and she serves them up at surprisingly low prices. I especially like her pakoras (shown in the photo below).   

While she does use dairy products (like all the Indian vegetarian restaurants in Tokyo) she is happy to make a set vegan. 


Pakoras and Curry at Gopinathas. The tomato sauce on the Pakoras is amazing.

The owner of Gopinatha is clearly passionate about vegetarianism, and recently enjoyed vegetarian food in Taiwan.  I highly recommend a visit to anyone who would like to try her unique fusion of cuisines, or to Japanese or other people who are not comfortable with the level of spiciness of traditional Indian food. 


Govindas Edogawa-ku ($, 🥛)

Go here because: You follow ISKCON and want Prasadam (blessed food) or a large, buffet meal.

Mon-Fri: 11:00-14:30, 17:00-21:00, Sat-Sun: 10:30-14:30, 17:30-21:00.
Dinner Buffet (recommended): 17:30-21:30 (around ¥2,000)
Five minutes’ walk from Funabori Station on the Shinjuku (subway) Line.
(Half an hour and ¥320 from Tokyo Station.)
134-8622 東京都江戸川区船堀2丁目23−4
2 Chome-23-4 Funabori, Edogawa City, Tokyo 134-8622
Great weekend Indian buffet!
Some staff don’t understand veganism, and there’s sometimes few vegan options available.


Menu & Prices
Govindas have a weekend buffet (¥1,800) which is excellent value, at least for people with large apetites.  They also offer a la carte menu at all times (including weekends), with set meals (see dosa above) starting from around ¥1,000, which makes it one of the most inexpensive meals in Tokyo.


The weekend buffet is an excellent deal at 1800 Yen, especially when staff are willing to make vegan curries.

ISKCON food is made without onion, garlic or Hing / asafoetda (a popular Indian spice) - a similar diet to the Buddhist Shojin Ryori, and Chinese Buddhist food, and similar to but less restrictive than Jain food (see above). As such it is less flavoursome than other Indian food, but this is believed to be healthier.

The a la carte menu includes the largest dosas I have ever seen.

ISKCON, Cows and Veganism
Govinda's Edogawa-ku is a vegetarian Indian restaurant associated with Tokyo's ISKCON temple, to which it is attached. ISKCON is the International Society for Krishna Consciousness, commonly known as "Hare Krishnas" (from their chant) in the West. ISKCON followers believe that the cow is sacred (as do Hindus) and the consumption of dairy products is an integral part of ISKCON life. Temples often have their own farms, at which the cows are treated with the same regard humans are, and are even cremated when they die - which is of course always at the end of their natural life. Unfortunately, humane as this may be (animal rights aside), it is very inefficient, and most of these farms can no longer provide enough dairy products to sustain the society's temples, let alone their busy vegetarian restaurants. So most ISKCON restaurants use dairy products from conventionally-farmed cows, which in Japan almost certainly means factory farmed cows.

During discussions with ISKCON followers, including in New Zealand and in India, I've often met strong opposition to veganism, and while their restaurants tend to cater to vegans (perhaps due to their food's popularity among vegans) I've never found them to be very supportive of the vegan philosophy. There are, however, a small but increasing number of (usually younger) devotees
(members of the organisation) who are turning vegan.

On my most recent visit two of the four main dishes were vegan, but I needed to ask the helpful waiter, as vegan items are never labelled. Moments later, the same waiter appeared with the standard basket of nan and dosas, and after I (again) explained about the milk, he confirmed it had milk (seemingly unaware still that I wouldn't want to eat it, despite having just asked about dairy in the curries) and later re-appeared with rotis, which, as he helpfully explained didn't contain any milk. They were, however, smeared with butter or ghee. He gave up after that. Vegans certainly need to be careful to ensure that their meal doesn't contain dairy products. 


Govindas is Located inside the ISKCON temple, a few minutes' walk from Funabori Station.

Should you Visit? 
If you are an ISKCON follower, or if you would like to visit the temple to learn about ISKCON, and/or sample their food, then this is the obvious place to come. Govinda's is also a greatoption if you would like a hearty meal from an all-you-can-eat buffet. However, for non-ISKCON followers, a more flavoursome (and more expensive) meal could be had without the half-hour commute to Funabori from Veggie Herb Saga or the Veg Kitchen (see above).

Nataraj ($$, ナタラジ, 🥛)

Go here because: you want a cheap buffet meal. Or don't go.


This restaurant has five branches across Tokyo, including Shibuya and Ginza. If you want to go I suggest using the Happycow app to find the closest branch to you.
Website

A good vegan naan imitation and a typical, watery, overpriced "Chana Masala".

Nataraj are Tokyo's oldest Indian vegetarian restaurant, and are somewhat of an institution among vegetarians in Japan. I think, however, that they're cashing in on their reputation, and are now very overpriced. The only reason I recommend going is for the inexpensive lunch buffet, but is only offered on and off at some branches (see below). 

Indian Food Without the Flavour
Nataraj restaurants are like the antithesis of Vege Herb Saga, and in that sense they complement each other nicely. To any connoisseur of Indian food, Nataraj has a chain-restaurant feel, and its meals taste very insipid, as if the chef forgot the spice and then watered down the curry to save money. At Veggie Herb Saga all dishes are flavoursome and spicy (but, of course, it's possible to ask for less spice), while at Nataraj food is almost flavourless by default, and chilli powder and garam masala (two essential spices which are used in virtually every Indian dish) are optional, paid extras.

Menu and Prices
Besides tasting like it's watered down, in my opinion Nataraj's a-la-carte food tastes bland, as if it's mass-produced with low-quality spices. Portion sizes are very small (see photo above, in which the chick peas in the channa masala could be counted) and a barely satisfying meal for two (including a drink each, poppadoms, a shared entree, two curries and two naans) comes to about ¥7,000. This might be worth spending on a feast of authentic Indian curries and sides cooked to perfection from fresh ingredients at Veggie Herb Saga, but this is just too overpriced for what it is.

Lunch Buffet
From time to time the Nataraj restaurants offer a lunch buffet for around ¥1,000. It typically consists of four curries, a basic salad, tumeric rice and pakoras. This is the least expensive meal in Tokyo, and while a better (albeit smaller) meal can be had at Govinda's (see above) the Nataraj chains are much easier to get to, with several branches in Tokyo, including ones near tourist hotspots like Harajuku and Ginza. If you're wanting a large, inexpensive meal, then the Nataraj buffet might be just what you're looking for, but I suggest thinking of the "curries" as soups instead of Indian curries. 

Should You Go?
The only reason I ever go to Nataraj is for a quick, inexpensive buffet meal. I never go to their a-la-carte service because I consider the curries to be much too bland, and the prices ridiculously high relative to the quality of the food. And I refuse to pay extra for chilli powder in an Indian curry. Nataraj can be good for introducing "Indian" food to those who have not eaten it before (as is the case  for many Japanese, who are not accustomed to spicy food). However, I would strongly recommend Gopinathas (see above) for this purpose, because the talented chef there adds a Japanese twist with herbs and spices, while the food at Nataraj just tastes like the chef left out everything intended to give the dish flavour.

On the upside, I do appreciate that Nataraj make a vegan version of naan (see photo above), which is very rare (as far as I know Indian Restaurant Shama in Osaka are the only other place in Japan to offer one). It's available at the buffet and is one reason I go. 

Finally, most are underground or on a high floor, all Nataraj restaurants have a pleasant interior, and your order will be delivered very quickly (and the buffet is of course even more efficient).

Non-Vegetarian Indian Restaurants in Japan?

In much of Japan, a chana masala from the local Indian restaurant is the best vegan option.
 
Most Indian restaurants in Japan serve North Indian food, and many have a chef who speaks some English and can prepare a vegan dish; however there are several risks involved. Many may use a pre-made non-vegetarian curry sauce for all their curries, adding chicken to a chicken curry or chick peas to a chana masala . I generally ask to speak to a chef and try to get a feeling of how honest he (it's always he) is being, and then proceed with an order if I trust he's making enough effort to ensure that my meal will be. My worst experience was at a restaurant in Nagasaki (which, not surprisingly, seems to have closed down) where the English-speaking waitress clearly understood my order, but still the roti came out smeared with ghee, the salad had a mayonnaise dressing and the curry had curd in it. They just couldn't be bothered, so I paid for the samosas (which were frozen on the inside and burned to a crisp on the outside) and the one roti I'd eaten, and left. This experience is, unfortunately, very common at non-vegetarian restaurants.

The 'Nan Test'
The best way to test if a restaurant will cater to vegans is to ask about breads. Nan bread always contains milk (and usually egg, except at most Indian vegetarian restaurants) and it must be prepared the night before and fermented overnight. If they staff quickly point out that nan bread aren't vegan, I trust them. If they don't think of it, it's a bad sign as they haven't really understood. If they promise to make a vegan one (as many do) I walk out, as it means they either have no idea or (in most cases) are just lying, telling me what they think I want to hear in order to get my meal order through as fast as possible. This of course does not apply to vegetarian restaurants like Nataraj which prepare vegan nan daily, including Nataraj (see above) and Indian Restaurant Shama in Osaka.


Tips for Eating at Non-Vegetarian Indian Restaurants in Japan

1. Small restaurants run by one or two Indians (including the chef) are a much safer bet than large chain restaurants (such as those found in shopping malls) where staff tend to come and go, food is prepared in advance (usually with meat-based stocks) and chefs are told to follow strict recipes. 

2. Try to identify restaurants which are run by (in order of preference, on average) Jains, Buddhists and Hindus. This seems discriminatory, but Buddhists and Hindus are familiar with the concept of vegetarianism, and they grow up being taught that it is a virtuous way to live, so most hold it in high regard. Muslims, by comparison, are taught that killing animals for food is morally permissible, as long as the animals are killed in an especially cruel manner (Halal slaughter). Of course, there are plenty of Muslims who offer an honest vegan meal, and people of all religions who would prefer to lie than go to the effort to make a vegan meal or lose custom. But, speaking on averages, the difference on consciousness of vegetarianism is significant, at least from my experience. Hindu and restaurants can usually be identified by gods on the walls, and they never serve beef; Buddhist ones also don't usually serve beef and they often have Buddha images around. Muslim establishments never serve pork, usually serve beef, and are more likely to specify that they use halal meat than others. 

3. Never order a set meal, as these curries are usually pre-made, and are likely to have animal-based stocks to appeal to local tastes.

4. Order a dry curry, such as chana masala (chickpea curry) or (sometimes) an aloo gobi (potatoes and cauliflower), even if they're not on the menu. This means they're more likely to make it up on the spot (which a skilled Indian chef can do in minutes) and is thus a safer bet for a vegan meal. These two dishes traditionally don't use dairy products.

Common Traps 
1. In Japan many restaurants (especially chain restaurants in shopping malls) add an egg to the pakora batter, to make it more like Japanese tempura.Likewise samosa pastry occasionally contains milk and/or egg, so it's good to ask whether or not they make it themselves. Many wait staff will have no idea, however, and may be reluctant to find out.

2. Rotis (flatbread) are often smeared with ghee (clarified butter).

3. Many staff don't think of mayonnaise (used for salad dressings) as containing milk or egg.


Heading to Taiwan? Check out my page on Indian Vegetarian Restaurants in Taipei.


Loving Hut Tokyo

Updated March 2020, amid the COVID-19 pandemic. 

Practical Details

Wed-Thu: 11:30-14:30, 17:00-20:30; Fri: 11:30-14:30; Sat 11:00-15:00, 17:00-20:30.
Saturday lunch buffet 11:00-15:00. 

In mid-March 2020 the buffet has been temporarily suspended to prevent the spread of COVID-19.  
A-la-carte dinner: 17:00-20:30 (reservations recommended)
Five minutes’ walk from Jimbocho Station (Toei Shinjuku Line, Toei Mita Line, Tokyo Metro Hanzomo Line) (Exit 5).
Twenty minutes’walk from Yasakuni Shrine, or one stop on the Shinjuku Line (Kudanshita Station to Jimbocho Station).
101-0051 東京都千代田区 神田神保町1丁目54 岡田ビル 2F
Okada Bldg 2F, 1-54, Kandajinbocho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, 101-0051
03-5577-6880 (Staff speak English and Chinese.)
Great-value all-vegan buffet.

Introduction

Japan's only Loving Hut has been around for well over a decade, making it one of the very few pioneer vegan restaurants in Japan to remain open today. While it's not in a prominent location, it's only a few minutes walk from Jimbocho Station and is well worth the short trip from central Tokyo; it also works very well with a day exploring Ginza and Chiyoda. I recommend that most tourists visit the Loving Hut after the Imperial Palace East Gardens and/or the (controversial) Yasakuni Shrine and its attached Yushukan (war) Museum.

Menu

The Tokyo Loving Hut serves a delicious range of Japanese, Taiwanese and other fusion favourites, with basic meals starting at under ¥1,000, including fried rice, ramen and soup dishes. Like many Loving Huts around the world, it uses fake meat, in fitting with the chain's purpose of helping omnivores switch to a plant-based diet. But while a lot of fake meat contains animal products, the Loving Hut company manufacture theirs from raw ingredients in their own factory in Taiwan, ensuring that they are not only vegan but as healthy as processed protein-rich foods can be. Also, all Loving Hut staff and owners are strictly vegan, making them among the safest places for vegans to eat around the world.

In fitting with the purpose and teachings of the chains founder, spiritual teacher Supreme Master Ching Hai, Loving Huts do not serve alcohol, due to its negative effects on society and those who consume it. This makes running a business in Japan much more difficult, because the standard restaurant business model there is to give away food with little if any profit and make money on drinks; the average person spends about as much on drinks as they do on their food, and all the restaurant needs to do for that money is to open a bottle and recycle it afterwards. As far as I am aware, there is only one other vegetarian restaurant in Japan which doesn't serve alcohol for ethical/spiritual reasons, and that is Vege Herb Saga (also in Tokyo) which is owned by a Jain (the world's oldest religion of non-violence, from which the concept of Ahimsa comes). It mostly serves Indian vegetarians who also don't consume alcohol and are willing to pay a little more for quality food cooked in a vegetarian kitchen, and eat in an environment without meat or alcohol.

These fried dumplings are the largest I've ever seen. I should have photographed them with something else in the picture for comparison.

Saturday Lunch Buffet




The Tokyo Loving Hut is the most famous for its weekly Saturday lunch buffet, which, at ¥2,000 is the best-value buffet meal in the Tokyo, if not the best-value of any meal in the city. Anyone who's familiar with Taiwan will recognise versions of the favourites from the buffets for which Taiwan has been famous for among vegetarians and vegans for decades, but the Loving Hut also offer a range of Japanese and other dishes. All are cooked to perfection, and the busy staff never seem to stop bringing out fresh plates of delicious dishes. Happycow reviewers describe this multi-course meal as the best they had in Japan. Of course, no buffet meal at this price it can't rival the expensive shojin ryori served at Buddhist temples in its exquisite presentation and fine dining experience, but for me -- and clearly many other diners -- the Loving Hut offers the most elevating dining experience in Japan, as their purpose and passion for veganism showing through into the food, the restaurant atmosphere and the whole experience.

Bentos 

The Tokyo Loving Hut sells bentos (meal boxes) for ¥800. While it's great that there is now vegan food available in Tokyo Station, I would alway prioritise food from a Loving Hut over any other, because it's a completely vegan company whose purpose is to support the growth of veganism around the world. (Ts Tantan in Tokyo Station, which offers ramen and take-out sandwiches, is also a totally vegan company, but Ekiben, which also sells vegan bentos, offers one vegan option among a store full of fish products).

This is how my bento looked a decade ago, after I carried it up Mount Fuji in my backpack and kept it overnight for breakfast. Please take my word for it that the bentos look a lot better under normal circumstances! While nowadays sandwiches from T's Tantan in Tokyo Station would probably be more practical for this purpose, at that time I was very, very grateful for any take-out food which I could trust was vegan.

If you visit the Loving Hut before day trips out of Tokyo or leaving the city to travels to parts of Japan which don't yet have vegan restaurants I highly recommend taking some with you. Ask the staff how long they will keep unrefrigerated at that time of year. 

Store



The Tokyo Loving Hut is located in a pleasant, second-floor restaurant. It also features a small library of uplifting books, mostly on veganism, the environment and related issues. It also sells some take-out food. Like all food at Loving Huts, we can be totally confident it's vegan.

Festivals


Loving Hut stall at the Tokyo Veg Festa, 2010.

The Loving Hut often hold a staff selling vegan food at festivals, such as Earth Day and of course the Tokyo Veg Festa (vegetarian festival) in October, Japan's largest vegetarian event (see photo above). Their booth always has a long cue, and often runs out of main dishes early. During these times the main store closes, check their Facebook page for any announcements of closures or changes to opening hours.

Old Stuff

While I've just updated it in March 2020, this post dates back to a time before everyone carried smartphones and had data connections. I'm leaving the information here for posterity and for anyone without a smartphone, but if you do have one I suggest clicking on the 'Directions' link in the grey box at the top; this should bring up directions to the restaurant from your current location. 


Directions

Go to Jimbocho Station and take Exit A5.
Walk around the corner so you are heading north.
Walk north about 250m until you see a small yellow Loving Hut sign.



Take that alley, and the Loving Hut is on the second floor of a small building on the right, about 50m down the alley.




Old Photos


As of April 2014 this dish no longer appears to be on the menu.

The 'Loving Burger' has been a staple of the Tokyo Loving Hut for years, and is typical of Loving Hut food worldwide: simple, healthy, appealing to non-vegans and very well priced at around 1000 Yen. Maybe discontinued as of April 2014.

Wednesday 30 October 2019

Vegan Travel Guide to Japan

Welcome to Vegan Travel Guides




What's In the Vegan Travel Guide to Japan?

The Vegan Travel Guide to Japan is a nine-hundred-page travel guide to Japan. It is written for non-Japanese, vegan (or vegetarian) travellers to Japan. It covers most cities which are visited by first-time visitors to the country. Unlike traditional vegan guides, which focus mostly on food and restaurants, Vegan Travel Guides are complete travel guides which cover everything a foreign traveller to a country needs to know for an easy, stress-free trip which includes the best tourist attractions and vegan restaurants. Besides vegan restaurants and tourist attractions, the Japan Vegan Travel Guide also covers public transport, discount passes and other travel practicalities, and a discussion of the history, politics and religion of Japan from a vegan perspective.

Attractions and vegan restaurants are combined into easy-to-follow outings, with step-by-step directions, so that the vegan traveller can plan their travels at a glance based on the weather and day of the week, saving hours of planning time and preventing disappointments of finding restaurants closed or unbearable crowds.

The first two publications (for Taiwan and Japan) are the world's first complete travel guides written for vegans.

Which Cities are Covered?

 

Maps

While they can be used by the traveller to find their way around, maps are intended to offer an overview of a city or town, so that the reader can see at a glance where the train stations, vegan restaurants and main attractions are, and how to travel between them. Step-by-step walking directions, and links to Google Maps, are provided in the text of the book.
Maps include weather, budget and preparation for each outing.



Itineraries

The key attractions in Tokyo are separated into four itineraries, with optional extra for Tokyo Disneyland, Disney Sea, and the shopping island of Odaiba. Kyoto is also separated into three itineraries with a separate list of attractions around Kyoto Station which can be visited at any time. Of course, all itineraries combine attractions, vegan or vegan-friendly restaurants, preparation, costs and other necessary practicalities to make following them easy and enjoyable. 




In most smaller cities and locales, attractions and restaurants are listed separately, because they are mostly reachable on foot from each other, and most people only choose a small number of each and plan their own day accordingly. 


Chapters



Food 

Japan serves some of the best vegan food in Asia, if not the world, especially its famed Buddhist shojin ryori (literally "devotion cuisine"), and vegan macrobiotic restaurants can be found all over the country. But Japan can also be extremely difficult to travel in as a vegetarian or vegan because small amounts of fish and other animal products are used in every meal. This chapter covers the different types of Japanese cuisines, popular Japanese chain stores which serve vegan food, and of course the uniquitous convenience stores. 


Buddhist vegan restaurants like Kanga An serve some of the finest vegan cuisine in Asia, but many visitors never try it because they don't realise that they need to reserve it at least three days in advance.

Almost a hundred vegan and vegan-friendly restaurants are recommended throughout the book in the sections for each city or region.

The book also covers finding food at convenience stores and chain restaurants.


Coco Ichibanya, Japan's largest curry restaurant chain, serve these vegan curries at most of their branches, but they should not be confused with the "vegetable" curries, which contain animal products in the gravy. In March 2020 they have introduced soy cutlet to accompany their vegan curry range. 

Travel Practicalities

Japan is deservedly famous for having the most advanced but also one of the most expensive railways systems in the world, and it can be overwhelming for many first-time visitors to the country. This chapter covers the many different types of trains, discount passes other practical information needed to travel around Japan as efficiently and affordably as possible.


The book also covers the myriad of accommodation options in Japan, from high-end ryokans (traditional, high-end Japanese lodgings) to kapuseru hoteru (capsule hotels) and the affordable, efficient "business hotels" which are (despite their name) perfect for travellers.


Push the wrong button on a  Japanese toilet, and you may receive an unexpected shower from an unwanted place. 

Which Areas are Not Covered in The First Edition? 

This guidebook covers most if not all cities and attractions which are commonly visited by first-time travellers to Japan.

Every city and every suburb in Japan has something interesting to see or do, so it's difficult to specify which regions which could be of interest to a traveller aren't included, but popular areas which are not covered in the first edition include the southern island chain of Okinawa, and Kumamoto on the southern island of Kyushu. The guidebook includes climbing Mount Fuji, but not the Fuji Five Lakes area, which is very beautiful but is difficult to travel around without private transport. I hope to include these in a future edition.